I absolutely love this episode. And not just because I'm a giant Morden fangirl, but because like everyone says, this is where it starts to really take off.

The Raiders storyline falling down I'd attribute to the guest actor's... questionable line readings. It's really hard to remember, but the Raiders were the big recurring menace in Season 1 up until now. They had prominent roles in Midnight on the Firing Line and Believers, and they look like they're being set up as a long-term station problem. And then WHAM.

Also, I love that the battle sequence actually has some tactics. Not necessarily coherent tactics, but tactics. And there's Corwin, pre-name and still sporting long hair!

Probably besides Londo and G'Kar's answers to Morden, my favorite line in this is Kiro's "Where did it go wrong, Mollari? Where did we lose it all?" Because I love the idea of this lost golden age, the feeling of waking up and finding the landscape around you completely changed and realizing you've been sleepwalking. It's one of my favorite emotions to see realized in fiction and I think that everyone involved pulled it off fantastically, leading us straight into Londo's monologue, which would have been ridiculous without the setup.

Awesome episode, all told.